Those of us who value comfort prefer the speed of a plane, while the environmentally conscious opt for the train. We, on the other hand, have always taken our own car on vacation in recent years. Our car is our faithful travel companion and a sort of home base for us. We can pack whatever we want and have maximum flexibility. The latter was also the main requirement for our vacation in southern England.

Often, our travel plan consists of just a destination region, and we head off without a detailed itinerary. With England, it’s not quite that simple. First, you have to get to the island. You can either take the Eurotunnel or a ferry. We decided on the ferry. It was cheaper, and you get to see something. A tunnel is very boring. So, we booked the round trip. We also booked our first night in London so we wouldn’t have to search for a hotel with parking on our first day—a good idea.

Early on Sunday morning, at 4:00 a.m.—way too early—we packed the last of our things into the car and set off. Past Cologne into the Netherlands, a quick turn into Belgium, and from there to Calais, France. A six-hour drive. Luckily, we had packed provisions before leaving and ended up being super early in Calais. The effects of Brexit were immediately noticeable. We had to show our passports, and customs wanted to see proof of accommodation. Very handy to have already booked a hotel.

Wow, Tower Hill? That’s a nice hotel and a great area. Have fun!

It was more complicated than before, but not rocket science. Consequently, we arrived at the port much earlier than expected. And we got lucky; the ferry in the harbor wasn’t ours, but it still had space. So we were allowed to leave two hours early. Off to Dover!

From Dover via Canterbury to London

Driving on the left, tolls, and environmental charges

On the ferry, we were able to confirm one thing right away: Yep, my girlfriend gets seasick. As soon as she can’t see the horizon or the ship’s movement, she feels ill. Not a great argument for getting a sailing license in the future. Still, she managed the crossing well, and as we entered the harbor, we were able to admire the white cliffs of Dover against the gray British sky.

And then, the moment of truth: The car had to come off the ferry, and I had to drive it onto the roads of England. You know, the country where people drive on the wrong side of the road. Left instead of right. Out of the port area and then, tense and nervous, onto the highway towards Canterbury. Our actual destination was London, but Canterbury is on the way and is said to be worth a visit. In short: Yes, Canterbury is worth a visit, and I’m not just saying that because I took a break from driving there. The city itself is rather small, but historic and well-maintained. You feel like you’ve been transported several hundred years back in time.

After this brief stop, we continued on to London. For whatever reason we decided to drive into the city, it was an expensive idea. We had already paid the city congestion charge and the environmental fee in advance. Nearly 55 British pounds, or 63 euros, another 40 euros for parking, and another 5 euros to drive through the tunnel under the Thames to the north side of the city. We didn’t know about that last one beforehand, but luckily you can pay for it online with PayPal. 110 euros just for the privilege of driving into the city. The hotel, five minutes from Tower Bridge, wasn’t a bargain either, but oh well.

London by Night

It gets dark faster than expected

On the other hand, you spend so little time in the hotel that it’s almost a waste. But there weren’t many alternatives in that location with a parking spot. We quickly dropped our luggage in the room and headed out. A short walk to the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. At night, these places are beautifully lit, like almost everything in London. The temperatures were fine, so we decided to take a walk into the city. The first stretch was along the Thames, then to St. Paul’s Cathedral, and across Trafalgar Square to Piccadilly Circus. Time for dinner. England is certainly not known for one thing: good cuisine. Accordingly, you have a choice between various restaurant chains, all quite expensive. We settled on Pizza Express; pizza always works, and the reviews were great.

Re-energized, we continued our tour, past the luxury shops, through Green Park, and by Buckingham Palace. By the time we reached Big Ben, we were exhausted. The thought of walking all the way back was too much, so we went underground. You can register your Google Pay upon entering the station and complete the payment at your destination. It couldn’t be more convenient, and this is an area where Germany could learn a thing or two. In general, really, when it comes to contactless payments. In England, it’s possible almost everywhere, even at the parking meter. We invested the time we saved in the hotel bar, spending way too much money on one cocktail each. But it came with a great view over Tower Bridge and the city.

The first day taught us two things: the sun sets incredibly fast in England in the winter, and we can’t walk that much every day. So, we got up early and took the tube straight into the city. A Pret a Manger supplied us with breakfast, and our path led us via Trafalgar Square to Big Ben. In the daylight, everything has a completely different feel. We walked back along the south side of the Thames. Thanks to Uncle Roger, we had mei mei on our minds, so we walked to Borough Market, a local specialty market. The place wasn’t easy to find, simply because the market is huge and labyrinthine. You should definitely see Borough Market and plan some time for it. Unfortunately, we didn’t, so we each just got a chicken rice dish to eat on the spot. Now, a quick dash back to the hotel and into the car.

The fastest route to Oxford? Straight through London and then a quick stop in Windsor. That’s coming in the next post.

In summary, the first two days were exhausting, but also exactly what we had expected and were looking for. A historic England with plenty of Christmas spirit. My girlfriend, despite my warnings, was astonished by the non-existent English cuisine. But in its place, you can find everything else the world has to offer. London is a melting pot of cultures, yet it always preserves its tradition and is simply a beautiful and historic city unlike almost any other. Sure, Rome may be older, but London is more majestic.

Here are the next parts of the Southern England travelogue: England #2: Windsor and Oxford England #3: Cornwall